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Surabaya has a wealth of quirky little corners of interest. Its historic Arab quarter in particular is fascinating: a labyrinth of lanes and a mosque that’s a place of pilgrimage. Surabaya has one of Indonesia’s largest Chinatowns and a roster of impressive Dutch buildings. For most visitors, the city is merely a pitstop. For locals, Surabaya is closely linked to the birth of the Indonesian nation. To them, Surabaya is Kota Pahlawan (City of Heroes), and statues honoring independence are scattered all over.

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